Don Det and the 4000 Islands: The Greatest Place in Laos
After spending five nights on Don Det, we can confidently say this “secret” laid-back island in Southern Laos is the getaway you didn’t know you needed.
The most popular of the 4,000 Islands, Don Det has everything travelers love – affordable bungalows, riverside cafés, and a chilled-out vibe that makes it hard to leave.
And with just a 15-minute longtail boat ride from Nakasong (the mainland), it’s one of the easiest hidden gems to reach in Laos.
During our stay, we biked through rice fields, lounged by the Mekong, and tracked down some of the island’s best meals (get ready for pumpkin burgers) – and we’ll share it all here.
In this guide, you’ll find everything you need to plan your trip to Don Det: how to get there, where to stay, what to eat, and the best things to do on the island.
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Best Things to Do in Don Det While Exploring the 4,000 Islands
Cycling – Get Lost and Go Waterfall Hunting
Your guesthouse will likely have bikes to hire. If you’d rather not put in the leg work, motorbike hire is also available all around the 4000 Islands.
Whichever mode of transport you choose, be sure to explore every inch of the islands, finding waterfalls and swimming spots on your way.
Khon Pha Pheng waterfalls is a standout for many visitors, however we chose not to check it as we wanted to save our cash. It’s only a small fee though, and other travelers highly recommended stopping here.
Can You Still See Irrawaddy Dolphins in Don Det?
A popular spot is the Old French Port where you can see Cambodia across the Mekong.
Many blogs write about the rare Irrawaddy dolphin breed that can be seen here. Sadly, the dolphins can no longer be found as they are now extinct.
Kayaking – Paddle Between Islands at Sunset
A classic activity anywhere in Southeast Asia with a river, Don Det is no exception. Book a kayak excursion through your guesthouse or with any tour provider on the island.
The tour offices are mostly clustered around the main pier and offer similar prices.
We didn’t partake in a kayak tour ourselves, but we did watch a couple groups float by while enjoying a beer at a riverside bar. Don Det is HOT during the day, but the sunset kayak trip looked like a perfect evening.
🌞 If you enjoy kayaking at sunset, you may also like: 7 Interesting Things to Do in Nong Khiaw
Tubing – Float Down the Mekong
To hire a tube, just ask at your guesthouse and if they don’t have one available, they will direct you to the closest place.
Float down the Mekong River making sure to stop for drinks as you pass nearby bars and restaurants.
Tubing in Don Det is way more chill than tubing in Vang Vieng. The only “adventure activity” we did in Vang Vieng was a hot air balloon ride.
Night Spearfishing – Try a Unique Activity
Have you ever been spearfishing? Have you ever been spearfishing at sunset then cooked the fish over a fire for dinner? No? Neither had we – but you can change that when you’re staying on Don Det!
Take a walk or bike ride along the sunrise side of the island and look out for signs offering activities run by guesthouses. We saw multiple ads for spearfishing – just pick the one that stands out to you!
Live your Best Hammock Life
When choosing a spot to stay, without a doubt it needs to include a hammock.
If you haven’t taken a time out in a hammock during your stay, you definitely haven’t done it right.
Keep your eyes peeled for water buffalo grazing on the shore before they go for an afternoon soak.
💤 Chasing that hammock life around Laos? Stay in a bungalow with a hammock and enjoy the dramatic scenery that surrounds Kong Lor Village in Central Laos.
Swim and Sip at Mango Bar
Also called Wrap and Roll, this place became our local during our stay in Don Det. It has the perfect combination of refreshing drinks, cheap meals, chill tunes and river access for swimming.
The bamboo huts provide a respite from the heat of the sun and comfortable furnishings to make you never want to leave.
Taste the Local Pumpkin Burger
Even before we arrived in Don Det, we heard rumors of the island’s notorious pumpkin burgers. We finally tried one on our last night and let us tell you – we still talk about it!
Flavorful with just the right amount of spicy mustard, we absolutely recommend the pumpkin burger at Mama Leuah Guesthouse.
We heard Kea’s Backpackers Paradise Restaurant Bar has great pumpkin burgers as well, but they were unfortunately closed both evenings we tried to visit for dinner.
Have a Massage for Peak Relaxation
As with most destinations in Southeast Asia, massages are readily available and usually affordable.
A massage on Don Det may cost a bit more than on the mainland (island prices, ya know) but we can’t think of a better way to keep in line with the relaxed vibe of Don Det than with a massage by the river.
⏳ Short on time in Laos? Read our two week itinerary for Southern Laos that includes the 4000 Islands!
Where to Stay in Don Det
The beauty of Don Det and its surrounds is that there are multiple options for where to stay and different parts of the 4000 Islands to explore.
Accommodation on a Budget
The Boathouse – Set in a quiet location in the South of the island, The Boathouse has clean and cool bungalows, all installed with fans. It’s worth noting in some places on the 4000 Islands, a fan is seen as luxury!
Easy Go Backpackers – The first hostel that opened on Don Det, you’re going to get a laid-back, social vibe from both owners and guests. The hostel also offer free bicycles – the perfect way to explore Don Det.
TOP TIP: If you need cash, make sure to use an ATM in Naksong, or at your previous stop before leaving for Don Det. You can exchange money on the island via the Money Exchange shops near the main port, but expect a weaker exchange rate and a high fee.
Mid-Range Accommodation
Mama Leuah Guesthouse – WE STAYED HERE! The owner Lutz and his family run a great operation. You’ll be treated to very comfortable bungalow beds, sunrise views, and a fast laundry service. FYI, regardless of where you stay in Don Det, be prepared for a few little bugs that might keep you company at night.
Namknong View – Only a short 8-minute walk to the main pier, this guesthouse offers insane sunset views and is owned by a super accommodating family. You’d do well to find unfriendly owners in Laos!
TOP TIP: Waste disposal services seem pretty limited on the island. Locals burn their trash so bear this in mind when doing laundry on the island. Your clothes will be hand washed in the river and hung out to dry. We found our clothes smelt of smoke afterwards.
Laos-Style Luxury Accommodation
Baba Guesthouse – Treat yourself to air conditioned hotel rooms, with fast, reliable WiFi. Baba Guesthouse has a good location in the North of the island, making all the “main tourist attractions” easily accessible.
🚿 Regardless of where you stay on Don Det, expect the water in your bathroom to come directly from the river. As we are sure you know already, don’t drink the water. Moreover don’t expect hot water in your shower – not that you’ll want it!
🏖 Don Det has some beautiful guesthouses to choose from. See why travelers love staying here – and what’s still available for your travel dates.
Where to Eat in Don Det
Mama Leuah Guesthouse – The local and western options here are to the highest standard.
Do not miss French toast for breakfast, chicken schnitzel sandwich for lunch, and the local specialty pumpkin burger for dinner. Be sure to try the chocolate sticky rice for dessert!
Mango Bar (Wrap and Roll on Google Maps)– Aside from the chill vibes, the food and smoothies are not to be turned down.
We had the vegetable fried rice and pineapple smoothies multiple times for a tasty, cheap lunch. The kebabs are also highly rated!
Mama Piang Restaurant – The owner here offers a warm welcome along with some excellent dishes. We recommend trying the pumpkin curry, coconut veggie soup, and the mango sticky rice.
TOP TIP: There’s a small place on the river side of the road, between Mr Vai restaurant and Mr Tho’s Bungalows where we ate breakfast one morning. The potato omelette and lemon pancakes are delicious and very affordable.
When is the Best Time to Visit Don Det and the 4000 Islands?
The weather in Southern Laos is much warmer than destinations in the North – especially in the dry season! When we stayed on Don Det in March, temperatures were around 39 degrees, hot hot hot!
Even though the weather is hot, the best time to visit Don Det is the dry season – between December and April/May. Luckily there are plenty of ways to cool off, so we just tried to avoid the sun during peak heat.
Like much of Southeast Asia, travel in Don Det and the 4000 Islands is impacted by the monsoon season.
Much of the island is flat and can be susceptible to flooding when the rains come, so try to avoid visiting between May and October.
How to Get to Don Det (from Pakse and Siem Reap)
Take a Bus and Boat Combo from Pakse to Don Det
This is a short, hassle-free journey by bus and boat. There are lots of booking agents around Pakse town for you to book your trip from Pakse to Don Det.
We recommend booking with Miss Ngoy (the same place we hired a motorbike for the Bolaven Loop).
You can also book the bus and boat tickets through your guesthouse in Pakse if you’re staying there on your trip to Laos.
TOP TIP: On the boat from Nakasong (mainland Laos) to the 4000 Islands, you can ask to be dropped at different piers. For example, we stayed in the South of Don Det, so asked the boat driver to take us to Taka Pan (The Old French Pier).
🔥 Want more hot transit tips for your visit to Laos? We’ve written a comprehensive guide on transport in Laos – you’ll get the do’s and don’ts plus insider tips.
Travel from Siem Reap to Don Det with Asia Van Transfer
This is a long, tiresome journey with a few transfers and a busy border to cross between Cambodia and Laos. It is possible to conquer this transit without assistance, but for we booked with Asia Van Transfer.
They are a reputable Cambodian company who ensure your border crossing is stress-free. We traveled the reverse route, from Don Det to Siem Reap, and had a painless experience.
It’s worth noting the price difference between doing it yourself or with Asia Van Transfer is a few US dollars.
Is Don Det and the 4000 Islands Worth Visiting?
A visit to Don Det will not disappoint.
Although often overlooked by travelers who instead head to the islands off of Thailand or Cambodia, Don Det is a unique riverside island oasis that is not to be missed.
It is still truly a lived-in tourist spot. The locals go on with their day as you explore the surroundings and for us, this certainly adds to the charm.
The islands leave you pondering what a joy a life growing up there must be.
As we meet other travelers, we cannot stop recommending Don Det and the 4000 Islands.
A special place in a special country. It’s worth the extra time on a bus, the cash counting, and the extra time you may spend in Laos. Go to Don Det – you won’t regret it!
🧳 Ready to plan your stay in Don Det? Here’s a few places we recommend staying.
📍 Already in Don Det? This is how you get from Don Det to Siem Reap.
