Valbona Pass Hike: The Best Trek in Northern Albania
The Valbona Pass hike is one of the most breathtaking adventures in the Albanian Alps. Rugged trails, sweeping views of the Accursed Mountains, and even mountain cafés and cozy guesthouses waiting at both ends.
We hiked it ourselves (despite swearing off long treks after a grueling multi-day hike in Laos!) and can confirm: you don’t need to be the strongest hiker to fall in love with this trail.
In this guide, you’ll find everything you need to plan the Valbona Pass hike. From how to get there, what to pack, and where to stay, to a step-by-step breakdown of the trail’s checkpoints so you know exactly what to expect.
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Valbona Pass Hike: Things to Know Before You Go
Distance: 17 to 20 km depending on guesthouse locations
Time: 6-10 hours
Difficulty: Medium to difficult
When: June – October
Accommodation: Well-rated guesthouses are available in both Theth and Valbona. Check rates here.
Guide needed: No. You can do this hike independently or with an organized guide such as this one.
Theth to Valbona vs. Valbona to Theth: Which Direction to Hike?
Should you walk from Theth to Valbona, or from Valbona to Theth? Which direction to hike the Valbona Pass is the most contested decision for travelers visiting the Albanian Alps.
There are definitely pros and cons to both directions, so it really comes down to personal preference.
We recommend hiking from Theth to Valbona for a better all-round experience.
Why We Chose Theth to Valbona
✅ A more varied, interesting ascent
✅ Lots of shade in the morning for the start of your hike
✅ Cafes are better positioned – closer to the summit
❌ Steeper incline to start the hike
❌ The descent down to Valbona is longer than the ascent from Theth
Hiking Valbona to Theth
✅ Less steep incline to hike up (but longer)
✅ The longest part is the first half of the hike – less distance to walk during second half of hike
❌ Ascent is mostly gravel switchbacks – hard on the knees and tired legs
❌ Direct sunlight whilst walking to the summit
❌ Cafes on the Valbona side are close to the bottom – not as good for a rest close to the summit
Valbona Pass Hike Route Breakdown (Trail Checkpoints & Highlights)
Arrive in Theth (from Shkoder)
Public transport from Shkoder to Theth takes about 2.5 hours. There is a minivan that leaves at 7am from the Shkoder bus station, but you can also check with your accommodation to see if there are other routes.
➡️ Related: 8 BEST Things To Do in Shkoder (before you head to the mountains)
Most accommodation in Shkoder will let you store your main bags while you hike. Pack a day bag with only the absolute essentials you’ll need – you don’t want to do this hike with a big heavy bag!
We paid 3 Euros per day to store our bags. If you book your hike with your accommodation, this service will likely be free.
🏆 Stay Here in Shkoder – Scodrinon Hostel – The beds are clean and comfy, the free breakfast is huge and delicious, and the rooftop offers 360-degree views of the city. This is also the least expensive hostel in Shkoder!
After you drop your bags at your guesthouse in Theth, you have three options:
- Hang out in the garden and enjoy being surrounded by the Albanian Alps. Relax in preparation for the big day ahead!
- Get your hiking shoes on and set out on a shorter hike to the Grunasit Waterfall (Ujvara e Grunasit) and/or the Blue Eye (Syri I Kalter). The Blue Eye is absolutely beautiful and well worth the extra effort! There is a restaurant at the top of the mountain where you can stop for lunch.
- Book a tour with a local operator to see all the sites of Theth in one afternoon! Ask your guesthouse for recommendations.
TOP TIP: We spent multiple nights in Theth before starting the hike and 100% recommend you do the same. This allowed for enough time to hike to the Blue Eye as well as relax in Theth before the hike.
Preparing in Theth (Breakfast, Packed Lunch & Trailhead Start)
Breakfast in Theth
The breakfast at our guesthouse began at 8:30am, so we quickly ate, collected our packed lunch, and set off around 9am. We didn’t ask for an earlier breakfast, but we wish we did to allow for an earlier start!
Most guesthouses will pack you sandwiches and fruit for your hike if you ask in advance, so check with your guesthouse the night before. This will be cheaper and more convenient than buying lunch along the way.
Locating the Trailhead Start
The trailhead isn’t as obvious as you’d think for a major hike. To begin the trek, walk along the main road until you reach a parking lot. Once through the parking lot, there will be a signpost pointing right to Valbona.
TOP TIP: Download Northern Albania on Google Maps offline and Maps.me so you can check the route, timing, and elevation of your hike while you don’t have service in the mountains.
📶 For the rest of Albania, Airalo offer reliable eSIMs at a decent price. Use code JULIA1616 for $3 OFF your first eSIM purchase.
Once on the trail, the route is well marked with red-white-red striped paint markers. The trail is very easy to follow, but if you’re unsure just look around for one of these markers.
There are also big yellow and red pointers noting the distance and time to Valbona, though these should only be used as an estimation as we didn’t find them to be fully accurate.
Early Trail: Theth to the Meadow
About 2 hours into the hike we arrived at the meadow – the first dramatic viewpoint of the hike! After a steep climb, you’ll emerge from the trees into a green field surrounded by mountains.
We were there in early June when the spring flowers were in full bloom (highly recommended). This is a good spot to take a break and take a ton of photos.
Café Stop at Rrgalla
Another 1.5 hours later, we reached Cafe Rrgalla, the second café on the Theth side. We passed the first café further down the mountain, but decided to hike on and take a longer break at the second café.
You can buy beer, soft drinks, coffee, snacks and traditional food here. If you’re feeling hungry, order a slice of flija, a traditional Albanian mountain food made of layers of dough.
The owner of the café was hesitant to refill our water bottles, unlike every other café and guesthouse we’ve encountered in Albania.
He said it was because the refill was just river water and it wasn’t safe, but we had been drinking river water from other guesthouses for days.
He offered plastic bottles of water to buy instead, which we did not want. Drinking untreated water is always a risk, but it’s the norm in the Albanian Alps.
We ended up just going 3 minutes back down to the river to refill ourselves.
TOP TIP: There are plenty of rivers, springs, and taps to refill your bottles. Top up your water whenever you see a source to make sure you always have enough!
The Final Ascent to Valbona Pass Summit
After an hour break at the café, we set off again and finally reached the summit a little over an hour later. This probably took longer for us than it will for you (the Valbona Pass hike is no joke).
We decided to stop for lunch about 15 minutes after leaving the café, and Jess’s blisters were really starting to rub which slowed our pace.
The summit is rocky and windy, so we walked about 50ft down the trail toward Valbona to sit and enjoy the views with more space.
When you arrive at the summit, there is an option to go just a little higher to the very peak of the mountain.
Drop your bags on the flat bit (you’ll know what we mean when you’re there) and head up to the peak without the extra weight for 360-degree views of Valbona Pass!
Rocky Descent from the Summit
Around 4:15pm we reached flat ground, which we thought was the bottom of the pass (spoiler: it is not).
TOP TIP: A few sections of this first descent are narrow, gravelly, and on an exposed cliff edge. MOST of the hike is not like this but be prepared for a few nail-biter moments if you don’t like heights or cliff edges.
We followed the sign at the bottom of the mountain to the right pointing towards Valbona.
After a few minutes we found a good flat rock for a snack break, so we stopped to have some fruit and nuts for energy and to rest Jess’s sore feet.
Simoni Coffee Checkpoint
This was the first café we walked by on the Valbona side. Located down the trail after the first descent, the café was closed when we were there.
We did the hike in early June and think the café would have been open if it was a bit later in the tourist season. Bear in mind we could have also just arrived too late in the day.
TOP TIP: Bring plenty of snacks and water for your hike. You can never count on guesthouses and cafes being open and we saw a few people struggling with no snacks (don’t worry we shared ours with them).
Trail End in Valbona Village
Right after you pass the café, you’ll begin a second descent down to the actual floor of the valley. This descent isn’t nearly as exposed as the first, and you’ll likely be able to hike a bit more quickly.
Jess’s feet were really hurting at this point, so she was basically hobbling down the mountain. It took us a little over an hour, but we think it would take maybe 45 minutes or less for someone walking at an average pace.
🙃 Side note: Don’t do this hike in work boots and H&M socks.
While this is the end of the official trailhead, our guesthouse in Valbona was another 3 miles down the road. The walk into town is along the riverbank over large pebbles and is supposed to take around 2 hours.
Arrive at Your Guesthouse in Valbona
We say “supposed” to take 2 hours because we ended up taking a taxi the rest of the way into town.
Jess’s blisters were so bad that she could barely walk and we felt accomplished enough having finished the official trail.
Julia walked up to a guesthouse along the trail to ask how to order a taxi.
Luckily for us their neighbor is a taxi driver and was able to take us straight to our guesthouse for 30 Euros (a small price to pay to get Jess off her feet!)
We checked into our room at Bujtina Brahim Selimaj and were immediately served a giant traditional dinner with another mountain view.
TOP TIP: Ask your guesthouse to help you book tickets for your journey home, or book online. Traveling from Valbona to Shkoder cost us 26 Euros each for two buses and a ferry.
Additional Things to Do in Theth
Visit the Kisha e Thethit (Theth Church)
Visit the iconic Theth view of the Kisha e Thethit (Theth Church). You’ll have to climb over a small ladder to enter the field, but don’t worry – this is allowed!
Traditional Dinner
We all know Albanian food is incredible, but we promise you’ve never had a meal like this!
Book a dinner at a local guesthouse (we recommend Guesthouse Kujtimi) for a multi-course meal made from local produce and traditional foods you’ll only find in an Albanian home.
This meal was an absolute highlight of our whole month in Albania!
Getting Back to Shkoder from Valbona
Morning in Valbona
We woke up and had our included (massive) breakfast at 8:30am. After breakfast, we paid for the accommodation, packed up, and checked-out to wait for the minivan.
Minibus to Fierze Ferry Port
After check-out, we waited at our guesthouse to be picked up and taken to the port at 10am.
Our guesthouse was at the very top of Valbona, so we were picked up first and spent about 45 minutes picking up other travelers around town.
Once we left Valbona, the actual journey to the port took a little over an hour.
🛑 WAIT AT THE FERRY PORT
After we were dropped off at the ferry port, we had to wait for a little less than an hour for the next ferry to arrive. This wait may vary depending on when the ferry arrives and when the driver wants to depart again.
TOP TIP: We didn’t realize how long this journey would be and didn’t bring any food. The café where you wait for the ferry sells drinks, ice cream, and chips, so make sure you bring food from Valbona.
Koman Ferry Crossing
We finally boarded the ferry and set off along the River Drin to Koman.
The ferry is comfortable and offers fantastic views of the river valley as you glide along the glassy water. We were told the boat would take 3 hours, but we arrived after about 2 hours and 40 minutes.
TOP TIP: Sit on the left side of the ferry as you board. This side was much more shaded and comfortable for the long ride. If you love the sun, you can also sit on the roof deck to work on your tan.
Final Transfer Back to Shkoder
Once we disembarked from the ferry, we hopped straight onto another minivan heading to Shkoder.
Prepare for a squished, 2-hour ride along mountain roads. The views were beautiful, but we were ready to be back in Shkoder by this point.
TOP TIP: If you get motion sick on curvy roads, take some travel sickness medicine before you board or while you’re on the ferry. The road to Shkoder was very curvy and a bit treacherous.
In Shkoder, you’ll be dropped off at the “bus station,” which is actually just a round-about located a few minutes’ walk from the main pedestrian street.
Our original plan was to head straight to Prizren, Kosovo once we arrived, but after picking up our bags we decided we’d had enough transit for the day.
We booked another night in Scodrinon Hostel and agreed to leave for Kosovo tomorrow.
Where to Stay in Theth
There are so many quality guesthouses in both Theth and Valbona. Be warned: Some of the least expensive accommodations are also the furthest from the trailheads.
We wrote an entire guide on where to stay in Theth based on whether you’re hiking the Valbona Pass or just hanging out in the village.
You can check out the list here, or keep reading for our overall top recommendations for guesthouses in Theth.
Location is less important in Theth than Valbona, but keep this in mind when booking!
💲 Budget: Shpella Guesthouse Theth – Stay in a budget 4-bed dorm.
💲💲 Midrange: Guesthouse Kujtimi – Great value for money with an incredible traditional dinner available. (WE STAYED HERE).
💲💲💲 Luxury: Villa Ujëvara e vogël – Stay in your own luxury villa.
Where to Stay in Valbona
💲 Budget: Hostel Quku i Valbones – Stay in a budget 10-bed dorm
💲💲 Midrange: Bujtina Brahim Selimaj – Affordable private rooms with mountain views (our accommodation)
💲💲💲 Luxury: Valbona Resort and Spa – A luxury hotel room in the town center
What to Pack for the Valbona Pass Hike
Preparation is essential for the Theth to Valbona hike – or any hike in the Albanian Alps. Don’t be caught in a pickle without enough supplies! Here’s everything we packed + a few things we wish we had:
- Good quality hiking socks (don’t hike in H&M socks)
- Boots or hiking shoes with good tread for gravely trails
- A change of clothes
- Essential toiletries (toothbrush, toothpaste, deodorant, shower gel, etc.)
- 1.5-liter water bottle to refill in the springs
- Sweet treats to keep your energy levels up
- Snacks like nuts and fruit
- A light rain jacket
- A fleece in case of weather changes & cool evenings
- Plenty of cash for food, drinks, and emergencies
- First aid essentials (band-aids, antiseptic cream, etc.)
- Sunscreen
- Hat & sunglasses
- Portable phone charger
FAQs About the Valbona Pass Hike
Should I Go From Valbona to Theth, or Theth to Valbona?
Both routes are popular with hikers. If you prefer to get the steeper part out of the way first, start in Theth. If you’d rather the longest part out of the way in the morning, start in Valbona.
We preferred Theth to Valbona as the shade heading towards Valbona in the afternoon was a treat.
Where is the Official Trailhead?
In Theth, the official trailhead isn’t so clear. Head towards Theth Visitor Center and from there you can’t go far wrong! You’ll walk through a parking area, then you’ll see yellow signposts directing you towards Valbona.
In Valbona, the trail head is here. It is located a few miles from where most of the guesthouses are in Valbona. You can take a taxi, walk or hitchhike to/from the trail head.
When is the Best Time to Hike the Valbona Pass?
The hiking trail is closed during winter, and tends to open from mid/end May to October.
How Long Does the Valbona Pass Hike Take?
Depending on where your guesthouse is, the route is 17 to 20 km and will take you 6-10 hours.
How Many Days Do I Need for the Valbona Pass Hike?
You’ll need to commit a minimum of two days to this hike regardless of the direction you walk. A day to get to Theth/Valbona from Shkoder, a night’s stay post hike, then travel back to Shkoder the next day.
What is There to See on the Theth to Valabona Hike?
Along the way you’ll see dramatic mountain scenery, beautiful forests, a colorful meadow, and few local cafe stops to take a break in.
How Do I Get to Valbona?
You will take a 2 hour minivan to Koman. From there you’ll enjoy a 2.5 hour ferry on Komani Lake to Fierze. Finally, another minivan that will get you to Valbona in around 1 hour.
Spend the night in Valbona in preparation to start the hike the next day.
How Do I Get to Theth?
A much simpler journey, you’ll take a 2 hour minivan ride from Shkoder, with vistas of the Albanian Alps along the way. You can either start the hike that day, or spend the night in Theth first.
How Do I Get Back to Shkoder?
From Valbona, you’ll do the journey above but in reverse. A 1 hour minivan to Fierze, a 2.5 hour relaxing ferry ride on Komani Lake, then a 2 hour minivan back to Shkoder.
Theth to Shkoder will take 2 hours in a minivan.
Can I Store Luggage in Shkoder?
Yes! Most guesthouses and hostels in Shkoder will store your extra luggage for a small fee.
Scodrinon Hostel kindly stored ours for us for 4 nights – we attended a friend’s wedding in Theth so we were gone a little longer.
We like to use Radical Storage as well. Download the app and have a look at places nearby that will store your luggage whilst you’re away.
Can I Do this Hike with a Rental Car?
Sadly, there isn’t a road connecting Theth and Valbona so driving to the hiking area requires some extra leg work. You could take the scenic drive to Theth and leave the car there whilst you do the hike to Valbona.
This would mean then hiking back to Theth the following day – if your sore feet can manage it!
Alternatively, you can do a day hike from Theth up to the Valbona Pass. Allow a minimum of 6 hours for this return journey.
Is the Valbona Pass Hike Worth It? (Final Thoughts)
The Valbona Pass hike is an adventure we’ll never forget. We won’t lie – it’s not easy – but even with the insane inclines and sore feet, the staggering mountain vistas were worth the struggle.
We had read about this hike for years and couldn’t wait to be on the trails in the Albanian Alps.
Sometimes the anticipation of a trip doesn’t match the actual experience, but the Valbona Pass hike more than exceeded our expectations!!
Tourism in Albania is rapidly growing year to year, but the popularity of the Albanian Riviera beaches in the south hasn’t quite spread to Northern Albania yet.
Don’t expect this to be the case for long though! Head out to the trails while the Valbona Pass hike is still relatively undiscovered – we promise you’ll be just as amazed.
Ready to Go to Theth? Find the most budget friendly guesthouses here.
